Saturday, April 24, 2010

Girl without a clue

After a very long day of travelling that began at 2:30 am (GMT +05:30) and finished at 6:30 pm (GMT +01:00), I made it to my hostel in Madrid. One desperately needed shower later, I went out for a bit of a walk to see if I could find someplace to buy a map and/or guidebook and/or food. No luck on any account (I found food but it was all so expensive). So I took a 12 hour "nap" in my very squeaky top bunk.

Here's the trouble with an impromptu trip to Spain from India:
- There are no Madrid guidebooks to be found in Delhi
- All the guidebooks in Madrid are in Spanish
- I don't have any Madrid-appropriate clothes to wear

Oh well. I've loaded up on hostel-provided coffee, cereal, and Nutella toast, and soon I will go out wandering and hopefully not get lost. Someone's gotta have a map to sell me. I hope.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Goodbye paneer, hello tapas!

I'm leaving for Spain in 15 hours. After all this waiting and anticipation, it turns out it's a little bittersweet. It's going to be tough leaving the man who's been my rock throughout this whole stressful ordeal... but I'll see him again in about a month, so I guess that's ok.

It's funny how important food has become for me over the past few weeks. Growing up in a cosmopolitan society, I've always taken it for granted that I can get any kind of food I want, any time I want it. It's a lot tougher to do that here in India. I find my mouth watering at the thought of the middle eastern food I hope to get on the plane, the tapas I'll find in Madrid, and the ploughman's sandwich I can't wait to sink my teeth into as soon as I get back to London.

Speaking of which... no need to worry, family members. I won't be stranded indefinitely in Madrid. Getting on a train proved impossible, but I did manage to get a flight to Paris and then one to London. I'll be home Monday evening, at long last.

I never thought I'd say this, but I'm really looking forward to getting back to work.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

When I said I wanted an adventure...

... I didn't mean for it to involve 8 days of food poisoning and a volcano.

For those of you not following on Facebook, I fell ill almost immediately upon my arrival in Shimla. I know that it was beautiful there, mostly from Nathan's pictures (poor thing was only there a day before he got sick too) and the view from our hotel room, but most of it has been left up to my imagination. I recovered just enough to make it down the mountain, only for the bug to kick in again full force. 2 doctors and a hospital trip later, I am happy to report that I am almost completely back to normal.

Then this volcano thing happened. I was grateful for it at first, since I really wasn't fit to fly out on Friday. But then I found out that the earliest I could rebook my flight was the 30th of April, and even then there are no guarantees that the volcano will have stopped by then. Clearly, a Plan B was needed.

Plan B (which is now Plan A) involves flying to Madrid on Friday. I get to stop in Jordan, which would be exciting if I could actually leave the airport. But anyhow, yay, Madrid. The plan from there was to take the train to London (via Paris)... problem being that European rail is stupid and backwards and does not do e-ticketing. I need a paper ticket, and it's kind of difficult to get my grubby little hands on one of those all the way from Delhi.

So where does that leave me? I'm not sure yet. I'm sure somehow I'll make it back to London, and in the meantime I get a bonus holiday in Spain. And an extra week in India to hang out with my man and do some of the things I couldn't do while I was sick. And I lost 12 pounds. So I suppose life could be worse.

Editorial note: I do not endorse the food poisoning diet.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Incredible India

I made it to Akshardam Temple on Tuesday, after all. The temple itself is closed for renovations, so I was only able to wander the grounds (which were beautiful) and check out the exhibitions. Exhibition #1 involved a series of rooms, each with a scene telling the story of Lord Swaminarayan's life, acted out by robots. Exhibition #2 was a 40 minute movie about his life. And exhibition #3 was a 12 minute boat ride (think: theme park) through the history of India. There were Catholic nuns on my boat, which I thought was pretty cool (seeing as this was at a Hindu temple). Although the whole thing was kinda kitschy, by the end of it, I did actually feel a sense of inner calm and tranquility. I even contemplated becoming a vegetarian for a minute or two.

That night, Nathan and I went for a walk through a sort of informal market area next to our hotel. What strikes me most about India is that even though people are living in squalor, there is this wonderful feeling of community and industry everywhere you look. It's a good reality check.

Yesterday, I took on Chandni Chowk and the Red Fort. The Red Fort was beautiful and tranquil; the perfect place to spend a hot, sunny day. But Indians are funny... every time I took out my camera, people started begging me to take their photo. At one point, a group of women came up and stood next to me. They didn't speak English and my Hindi is primitive at best, so I had no idea what was going on until I turned and saw a man with a camera, at which point there was nothing left to do but pose and smile. Apparently I am a tourist attraction.

A little later on, a family asked me to take pictures of their kids. I'd been saying no to people (mainly 20-something guys) all day, but since the kids were totally adorable, I couldn't refuse.



After I'd waved goodbye to the family, this little guy couldn't resist creeping over to me for his own photo op.


On I wandered to Chandni Chowk. Chandni Chowk is... confusing and overwhelming and completely amazing. It's a labyrinth of tiny streets and alleyways, lined with shops. And when I say shops, I really mean alcoves packed with wares. It is more crowded and even dustier than anywhere else I've been so far, with incense masking the scent of urine and rotting garbage. But amidst this filth you find colourful displays of fresh fruit and vegetables, thousands of glittering and miraculously clean saris, and smiling people all shouting hello. I'll say it again: India is amazing.

Here is one of the wider and more formal streets in Chandni Chowk:


On one of my rickshaw rides back to the metro (I had to take two because the first guy took me to the wrong place), I learned the lesson once again that Indians are obsessed with having their picture taken. As soon as this guy noticed my camera, he swerved in closer to make the shot.


To round off the day, Nathan and I had thali at a dhabba (sort of a cross between a restaurant and street food) we'd found on our walk the night before. The food was excellent, though a little too spicy for me, but the naan has ruined me for life. I will never be able to fully appreciate naan anywhere else ever again.

Today, I'm supposed to head over to the Lodhi Gardens. I'm still not sure whether I'll make it. The lazy bug has bitten me again today.

Tomorrow morning, we head off for our weekend getaway in the Himalayas. We've settled on Shimla; Darjeeling would have been nigh impossible. I guess this just means I'll have to come back! No complaints here.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Famous last words

"I want to try that!" I said, watching the dancers from the Punjab having the time of their lives.

"I think I could actually do that," Nathan said, realizing that his problem is an inclination toward dancing big, which was precisely what these dancers were doing.

"We want you to come dance with us," said the dancers, tugging at our arms.

Nathan went first. I have to say, he really rocked out. He also wimped out... 3 times. They had to keep dragging him back on stage.

I went second. As a seasoned dance performer who has dragged many a victim up on stage with me, I now understand the terror I've induced. But once I was up there, I figured I'd better go big or go home. Arms positioned, torso leaning back, big Punjabi grin, my hip went drop, drop, drop. My legs went flick, flick, flick. I went spin, spin, spin. We went conga, conga, conga. And it truly was the time of my life.

All this at the dinner we were invited to at the Imperial hotel. There turned out to be a 2 hour long dance show as part of the package deal (when I found this out, I think I may have squealed with glee). It even featured a guy who danced with 9 pots balanced on his head, atop swords and shards of glass, or with glasses clutched in his toes.

Here are some quick clips of the Punjabi dancers earlier in the night. Sorry the quality isn't great.





Incidentally, the Imperial is absolutely stunning. Compare, for example, this image of their pool with the one I posted yesterday of ours. It's almost embarrassing.


So yes, all in all a wonderful night. Great food, great dancing, great people, great atmosphere. By the time we took off, the metro was no longer running so we had to catch an auto-rickshaw to the hotel. About an hour of letting our hair blow in the breeze for the low, low price of rs. 250 (£3.69). I love this country.

I had planned on going to Akshardam temple today, and I still might... but last night really knocked both of us on our butts. It's now nearly 12:30 pm and Nathan's still sleeping. I'm not much further along. So... we'll see. It may well turn out to be another lazy day.

Monday, April 5, 2010

First impressions

India and I are still in the very early stages of becoming acquainted. I've seen the Delhi airport, my hotel (in the suburb of Noida), the shopping district in Noida, and the stretches of land in between. It has been a gentle introduction, for which I am grateful.

Urban India is rough around the edges. It is stinky, noisy, crumbly, and dusty. Power outages are frequent. People stare at your white skin. Young children chase and prod you with dirty fingers, begging for just 5 rupees. You get scanned and frisked every time you step into any public place. Traffic follows no set pattern, preferring the rush of near-collisions and incessant honking over the monotony of driving within the lines. Jay walking across 6 lanes of traffic is mandatory. Skinny cows poop and soak up the sun along the median.

But this is a place of contradictions. The metro is new, clean, smooth, and air conditioned. The clothing is elegant. The people are friendly. The food is good, cheap, and plentiful. And tonight, we've been invited to a dinner at the Imperial, supposedly the finest hotel in all of India.

I'm loving all of it, and I can't wait to discover more.

The view from our hotel room.


In the shopping district. Don't ask me what "Flavour of Canada" means.


View of the sunset from the metro station.


The rooftop pool, where I spent part of the afternoon.

Friday, April 2, 2010

The little engine that could

22 hours until my flight to India takes off. It turns out that the boy will be travelling with me, so hopefully that'll help the time go by a little less painfully.

I'm not sure what to say at this point, nor am I sure how I feel. Excited. Anxious. Nervous. Overwhelmed. Disbelieving. I'm pretty sure the words and feelings will all come pouring out of me as soon as I arrive.

We've been trying to decide where we want to go for our getaway in the Himalayas. This process has been unexpectedly difficult, since many of the places we would like to go are dangerous thanks to military/terrorism and/or scary mountain roads and even scarier bus drivers. So, our decision is coming down to places we can reach by train: Shimla or Darjeeling.

I'm rooting for Darjeeling because... how cool would that be?! Plus we'd get to ride this darling toy steam engine! The big downside is that it would take forever and a day to get there, and although we'd get to see loads of pretty countryside, Nathan would have to take an extra day off work. So we'll see. I'm sure Shimla would be really cool too.

I think I've also decided to take a day trip on my own to see the Taj Mahal in Agra. Supposedly it lives up to all the hype, so I feel I have to take advantage of what may be my only chance to see it.

It seems I'm going to be spending an awful lot of time on transport this trip. Hopefully it'll be worth it... and maybe help prepare me for my epic journey to Hawaii in May. After all, that's what all the hours I spend commuting in London every day are for, right? It's like training for a marathon.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

I love planning - I just don't bother following plans

There's a lot going on with me at the moment, between work, career planning, my upcoming weekend in Sweden, and getting to see my man tomorrow for the first time in a month. But, as always, India's on my mind.

I received my visa in the mail today (YAYYYYYYYYYY!) so all is well and good in the world of travel (not only does this mean I can travel to India in a couple of weeks, it also means I have my UK passport back... which means I can go teach in Sweden this weekend without worrying about lying to the border guards). The only thing I still have to arrange is travel insurance.

Anyway, I figure it's time to start compiling a list of things I want to do while I'm there. It's not going to be a very long or comprehensive list; I'm still so overwhelmed by it all, and I think the best way to survive will be to just to go with the flow. But it can't hurt to list a few "must dos," lest I get caught up in the excitement and forget. This is also your moment to make recommendations, should you have any!

The general plan: Hang out in Delhi for a couple of weeks, with a side trip to somewhere in the Himalayas.

To do list:
- Shopping!!! Buy lots of cheap and beautiful clothes, scarves, jewellery, etc. (and possibly have some items custom made by a tailor)
- Learn to haggle so that I don't go bankrupt achieving the former
- Ride an elephant
- Do some volunteering
- Do some yoga
- Try some Indian dancing
- Learn some rudimentary Hindi
- Visit the Akshardam Temple (thank you, Alain)
- Visit Chandni Chowk
- Go to a Bollywood cinema
- Immerse myself in Indian culture; get to know some locals
- Take some pretty pictures
- Write some travel narratives
- Get a henna tattoo and my eyebrows threaded
- Cross the road without getting killed
- Not get too violently ill
- Begin to think of London as the boondocks

That's it... that's all she wrote! If you know of any good tailors, yoga or dance studios, salons, shopping districts, or elephant-riding places in Delhi, please feel free to name drop here. Your omg-you-can't-miss-this insider tips are also more than welcome. I'm more into doing/experiencing than I am into sight seeing, but I'm gonna want to do some of both. Perhaps ideally at the same time.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Switching it on

Do you do something that, no matter how you're feeling before you start, you feel as though you're bursting with life and energy and confidence whilst you're doing it?

That's how I feel when I teach dance.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

The school of my dreams...

... Will hopefully become a reality one day.

My life ambition has evolved quite a bit in the past few months. I've gone from wanting to consult on creative education for gifted kids and possibly starting a very small "home" school to... playing a bit role in the evolution of education by developing my own educational method and setting up my own small-but-much-bigger-than-before school for exceptional children of mixed abilities (gifted and special needs).

As though that weren't ambitious enough, I want this school to pull quintuple duty. In addition to a school, the building will also host a cafe/bar, a dance studio that is also a performance venue, and flats for hire upstairs (plus one for me). I'm going to try and get a rough plan laid out in the not-too-terribly-distant future so I can better illustrate how it'll work.

In terms of my educational method, I'm conscious of the fact that I should probably be careful to protect my "intellectual property." Part of me wants to just trust that if someone makes use of my ideas, they will properly credit me (and hopefully let me know about it as well). But just in case, I'm going to play it safe and be somewhat vague. I have a LOT of work to do before I have this all figured out, anyway, so I couldn't actually offer many details at this stage even if I wanted to.

Essentially, I want to combine what I think are the best ideas from every educational method/system out there: mainstream, special needs, Montessori/Waldorf, homeschooling, dramatic education, you name it. Ideas from different countries and cultures, too.

There will be both primary and secondary levels, most likely broken into what England terms "key stages" (but with slightly different age ranges).

e.g. Key Stage 1 = 5-7
Key Stage 2 = 8-10
Key Stage 3 = 11-13
Key Stage 4 = 14-17

Each key stage will be comprised of one class.

The whole way through the system, learning will be holistic and will focus on life skills, both vocational and domestic. There will be a big emphasis on creativity and critical thinking and just about everything will be hands-on. Every morning will begin with a bit of physical activity designed to help calm the body and focus the mind. Everything in mainstream curriculum (and more!) will be covered... in a much more fun, useful, and meaningful way.

In the secondary stage, the majority of the students' studies will be centred around "thesis" projects. The projects will follow different themes and have different requirements and, along the way, they will learn the skills needed to complete their projects. Some of these projects will be solo, some will be small group, and some will involve the whole class. Teachers in this area will act mainly as mentors and advisors, but teach some group lessons as well.

I'd also like for there to be a strong emphasis on diversity and community. The older and younger children will interact continually, both socially and through structured programs. We will eat and play together, and the older children will have a chance to mentor the younger children. Also, since this will be a school for both special needs and gifted students, children of mixed abilities and talents will be working together. I also plan to set up a scholarship fund so that the school can be accessible regardless of ability to pay.

So there you have it: my life ambition in a nutshell. I've been thinking about it obsessively all day, for some reason, so I just had to get it out there.

PS - I've already been approached by a few people looking for jobs. Yes, I am willing to consider possible future candidates now! Keeping in mind that I don't know when or where this plan will unfold. I'm also interested in hearing from people who wish to help me brainstorm or talk to me about what their ideal school would look like. I will eventually be looking for people to challenge and criticise my plan, but not yet. I want to have it more fully developed first.